A
Acid
Acid is usually thought of as a strong, corrosive material. In fact, most acids in cosmetics are the opposite. For example, Stearic Acid is an oil naturally found in plants and animals. It is also found in human skin and functions as an emollient. In cosmetics some acids, like Citric Acid, are used in very small concentrations primarily to control product pH (see also pH, pH Adjuster).
Alcohol
In cosmetics it usually refers to ethyl alcohol or ethanol. Ethyl Alcohol is always denatured (SD Alcohol). Denaturing alcohol means a bitter tasting additive is added to the alcohol to prevent human consumption. M·A·C usually uses Ethyl Alcohol which is derived from grain. It is used as a natural toner and cleansing agent in some of our products. Alcohol is actually beneficial in skincare products. It will tone and cleanse oily to normal skins effectively. Then it evaporates leaving no residue behind. In hair sprays, alcohol serves as a carrier for the functioning ingredients. Then it evaporates. It does not remove moisture or oil from the hair as some people believe. What is really happening is the alcohol evaporates more quickly than water and only seems to be drying out the hair. Alcohols other than Ethyl Alcohol may be used as carriers. When alcohol is at higher levels than what is used in cosmetics, it can disinfect. At our counter, we use 70% Isopropyl Alcohol to disinfect our lipstick testers and brushes.
Anti-Caking Agents
Powders often have a tendency to absorb moisture from the air and form a hard plaster-like “cake.” Anti-Caking Agents, such as Zinc Stearate, prevent this process and maintain powders in a free-flowing state in preparations like Face And Body Foundation.
Anti-Irritant
An ingredient, such as Sucrose, which reduces, suppresses or prevents irritation in products such as Strobe Cream.
Antimicrobial
An ingredient which destroys, inhibits or suppresses the growth of micro-organisms.
Antiseptic
An ingredient applied to humans and animals that retards or stops the growth of micro-organisms without necessarily destroying them.
Antioxidants
Ingredients which inhibit oxidation and rancidity in a product. These ingredients also inhibit the production of free radicals.
Aroma
An ingredient, such as Vanillin, used to give products like lipstick a pleasant odour.
B
Binder
An ingredient, such as Beeswax, used to hold together a mixture of solid powdered ingredients in products like foundations and lipsticks.
C
Chelating Agent
The metal ions in certain salts, such as Calcium, Magnesium or Iron, are sometimes incompatible with the function of other cosmetic ingredients or may promote deterioration of the product by oxidation or bacterial growth. A Chelating Agent, such as Disodium EDTA, combines with metal ions and prevents them from reacting badly with the neighbouring substances. It is used in a wide variety of products such as moisturizers, cleansers, and foundations.
Clarifier
It helps reduce turbidity (cloudiness) in a solution.
Cleanser
An ingredient, often belonging to the family of surfactants, which is capable of dissolving or suspending oil and dirt from the skin or hair, then cleaning it away in a water-based product. This process is also favored by the presence of foam, which is another property of many surfactants.
Colour
An ingredient that imparts colour to a product. (see also FD&C/D&C)
Colour Protectant
Pigments and other coloured substances often lose their brightness and become dull or bleached by chemicals or by the action of the UV rays from the sun. A Colour Protectant, such as Benzophenone-1, is an ingredient (often, a UVB absorber) that protects colours from such bleaching in products like Nail Lacquer.
Conditioner
An ingredient that lubricates or coats hair or skin thereby enhancing its body or suppleness. It facilitates styling, improves gloss or sheen and improves the texture of hair or skin that has been damaged by chemical or physical action.
Copolymer
(see Polymer.)
D
D&C
(see FD&C / D&C.)
Disinfectant
An ingredient such as SD Alcohol, which is added to a product like Brush Cleanser, which is used on inanimate objects, to destroy harmful micro-organisms or inhibit their activity.
E
Emollients
Ingredients that help give the skin a soft, smooth, pliable feel and appearance. Emollients achieve this effect by remaining on or close to the skin surface and acting as a lubricant. A typical example would be Glyceryl Linoleate, which is used in lipsticks and foundations. (see also Humectants and Moisturizers).
Emulsions and Emulsifiers
Many chemical substances can be broadly divided into two categories: oil-like substances and water-like substances. Although oil and water typically do not mix well, one may use a blender to force them (temporarily) together. Such a mixture is referred to as an Emulsion and is very often unstable. After standing for a little while, the two layers separate again. Many products benefit from containing oil-like substances for their emollient quality, and water-like substances for their hydrating quality. Cleansers also require that oil from the skin be removed with a water based product. Emulsifiers belong to the family of chemicals known as Surfactants and have the ability to promote and stabilize emulsions. (see also Surfactants).
Ester
A compound that has been formed from combining an alcohol and an acid. For example, Isopropyl Alcohol and Palmitic Acid when combined, form Isopropyl Palmitate. Ester compounds usually end in the letters “ate.”
Exfoliant
An ingredient, often mildly abrasive, which is capable of loosening and removing skin cell debris. Acrylates Copolymers in Microfine Refinisher act as an exfoliant.
Extender
Pigment powders can be too pigmented and concentrated to be used by themselves. An Extender such as talc is a lightweight and bulky material used to “dissolve” them so that the right amount can be used in a more practical and economical way in products like eye shadow or foundations.
F
FD&C / D&C
Stands for Food, Drug & Cosmetics, and Drug and Cosmetics. They are colour additives used in food, drugs and a variety of cosmetic products. Their use is highly regulated in the United States by the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetics Act of 1938, which states that the product must be suitable and safe for use. Colourants are grouped as follows:
- FD&C - allowed for use in food, drugs, and cosmetics (e.g. FD&C Red #40).
- D&C - allowed for use in externally applied drugs and cosmetics, but not in food (e.g. D&C Red #7 Calcium Lake).
Filler
An ingredient, such as Kaolin, that serves very much the same purpose as an Extender. In addition, it can provide a certain degree of stiffness or hardness to products like Blot Powder. (see also Extender).
Film Former
An ingredient, such as Butylene Glycol, that leaves a continuous microthin film on skin, hair or nails. This may serve several purposes. In products such as foundations it provides an evaporation barrier that helps keep the skin moist.
Foaming Agent
Foam is an Emulsion of air in water and it aids cleansing by suspending dirt and carrying it away. A Foaming Agent such as Decyl Glucoside often belongs to the family of Surfactants and is used for its ability to create and maintain foam in products. (see also Emulsion and Surfactants).
Fragrance
A group of ingredients which are used to create a scent. Typical cosmetic fragrances can be made of just two raw materials or as many as one hundred.
Frost
An ingredient, such as Mica, that gives the product a shiny, jewel-like appearance in products like eye shadow and frosted shades of Nail Lacquer.
H
Humectants
A humectant is a substance that has the ability to attract water and is meant to increase the water content of the top layers of the skin. This makes the skin appear smoother, less dehydrated and helps to minimize the appearance of fine lines. Humectants, such as Glycerin, are found in moisturizers, lipsticks and foundation. (see also Emollients and Moisturizers).
I
Inorganic
A substance that does not contain carbon. Examples include Iron Oxide pigments, Talc, Titanium Dioxide, Silica and Mica. Isotonic Agent A salt that when added to water in the correct concentration and combination mimics the fluid found in the eye, thus making the product less irritating.
Isotonic Agent
A salt that when added to water in the correct concentration and combination mimics the fluid found in the eye, thus making the product less irritating.
M
Matting Agent
An ingredient, such as Kaolin, which absorbs or scatters light in such a way as to reduce gloss or sheen in products like Matte Lipstick.
Moisture Barrier
An ingredient, such as Trimethoxysiloxane, that retards the passage of water vapour and prevents moisture loss from the skin in a product like Face and Body Foundation (see also Moisturizer).
Moisturizer
An ingredient which forms a barrier layer and retards evaporation from the skin, maintaining its water content. Moisturizers, such as Sodium Hyaluronate, are found in Studio Moisture Fix (see also Emollients and Humectants).
N
Natural Extracts
Ingredients extracted from natural sources, such as plants or yeast, and used for their physical and physiological benefits. They are usually too complicated or impractical to synthesize artificially and have a wide variety of functions in cosmetic formulations. An example would be Cucumber Extract, derived from the cucumber plant, which is used for its soothing and moisturizing properties in products such as Fast Response Eye Cream.
Naturally-derived
Ingredients derived from natural sources and that are sometimes purified, refined or altered. Ingredients which are naturally derived may have been altered several times. Each time a raw material is altered it can be referred to as a “degree of modification.” For example, a raw egg is naturally-derived. If you fry the egg it has gone through one degree of modification. So you could say that the “degree of naturalness” of a cooked egg is one. Another example involves Glycerin and Linoleic Acid, which are two natural ingredients. If you heat a mixture of these two ingredients you cook up Glyceryl Linoleate. Glyceryl Linoleate could be called a natural ingredient which is modified by one degree (see also Synthetic).
O
Oil Adsorbent - Oil Dispersant - Sebum Dispersant
An ingredient, such as Silica, which adheres to oil molecules and evenly disperses excess oil in products such as Blot Powder and Foundations (see also Sebum).
Opacifying Agent
An ingredient, such as Silica, that refracts light in such a way as to make products less transparent.
Organic
A substance which contains carbon. Some examples include Vitamin E, a derivative of Vitamin F, Aloe Vera, Chamomile Extract, Sage Extract, etc.
P
pH, pH Adjuster
pH is a convenient measure of acidity, normally used on a scale of 1 to 14. A pH of 7 is considered neutral (like pure water for instance). Every decrease or increase of 1 unit, respectively increases or decreases the acidity by a factor of 10. Orange juice has a pH of around 4, which is ten times more acidic than normal skin with a pH of around 5. Tears may be up to 10 times more alkaline (less acidic) than water, with a pH of around 7 to 8. It is very important for the body to carefully regulate the pH of its different parts and products that match its natural pH are much less irritating. Once a product has been formulated, it may be necessary to use a pH Adjuster, such as Citric Acid, to bring the pH to the proper range (see also Acid).
Pigment
A coloured ingredient, such as Chromium Oxide Green, used to impart colour to the skin in products like concealer, eye pencil and Face and Body Foundation (see also FD&C/D&C).
Pigment Dispersant, Pigment Suspender
(see Suspender)
Plasticizer
An organic compound, such as Camphor, which is added to a polymer to help with processing and increase the flexibility and toughness of the final product.
Polymer
Some chemicals have the ability to behave like little molecular bricks that can be joined together to form much larger molecules with new and interesting properties. These larger molecules belong to the family of “Polymers” and include plastics, film formers and hard resins for Nail Lacquer. If two or more different kinds of “bricks” are used to form a polymer, it is then referred to as a “Copolymer.”
Preservatives
Preservatives are ingredients that protect products from spoilage by micro-oganisms. They are often more effective in combination than alone and a mixture of them is often used to reduce the overall amount necessary.
S
Sebum
A type of oily substance secreted by the skin, normally to protect it from dirt, bacteria and dehydration.
Sebum Dispersant
(see Oil Adsorbent)
Shelf Life
The time period for which the product still can fulfill its function while remaining safe and effective. The shelf life of a product could be affected by sunlight, temperature and humidity changes.
Skin Adhesion
Powdered ingredients, such as pigments, do not naturally stick to the skin very well. A Skin Adhesion agent, such as Zinc Stearate, provides a “glue” that allows such substances to remain on the skin in products like eye shadow or Face and Body Foundation.
Skin Conditioning Agent
An ingredient, such as Allantoin, that improves the condition of the skin in products like moisturizers.
Solubility
The ability of a substance to dissolve in another substance. For example, water soluble cleansers are easily dissolved in water.
Solvent
An ingredient used to dissolve a given substance which usually doesn’t dissolve in plain water (some pigments, for instance). An example would be Isopropyl Alcohol, used in Brush Cleanser and Nail Lacquer.
Soothes
(see Anti-Irritant)
Squalane
A saturated branched-chain hydrocarbon obtained by hydrogenating various natural oils such as olive oil. It is used for its conditioning qualities.
Strengthener
An ingredient, such as Polyester Resin, used in products to help strengthen nails.
Surfactants
Water-like substances and oil-like substances do not mix well and do not have a natural tendency to foam. Surfactants modify the physical properties of liquids in such a way as to allow them to mix better, dissolve better or foam better. As a result, they can be used variously as Emulsifiers, Cleansers, Foaming Agents or Solubilizing Agents (see also Emulsions and Emulsifiers, Cleansers, Foaming Agents and Solubilizing Agents).
Suspender, Suspending Agent
If you mix together granulated sugar and instant coffee and shake the container, you’ll see the coffee grains separate and “float” on top of the sugar, a common phenomenon with powders of uneven sizes. Some substances, such as pigments, do not actually dissolve but remain as a fine powder “suspension” in liquids or emulsions and may have a tendency to clump or sink. A Suspending Agent, like Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, stabilizes the powder mixtures in products like moisturizers, Mascara and Matte Foundation.
Synergistic Effect
This effect happens when two or more ingredients are combined to produce a greater benefit than the individual ingredients alone (see also Preservatives).
Synthetic
Refers to an ingredient that has been made by chemical means and that differs a lot from the starting material used. There are many reasons why one may prefer to synthesize an ingredient chemically. Sometimes, a natural ingredient is too rare in nature or too expensive to purify. For instance, it would be environmentally irresponsible and economically disastrous to harvest three acres of wood and waste two thousand liters of solvent to purify one ounce of finished product. Chemical synthesis may provide a better alternative in this case since it may allow perfect duplication of the desired substance. In other instances, chemists have found a way to improve on nature and may synthesize a somewhat different but more effective ingredient than is available normally. In yet other instances, there are simply no natural products that will achieve the desired effect so that chemical synthesis remains the only alternative. There is a misconception that “synthetic” ingredients are more allergenic or toxic than “natural” ones. Remember, for example, that ragweed and snake venom are both perfectly “natural.” In reality, the allergenicity or toxicity of a substance has absolutely nothing to do with who or what made it and both “natural” and “synthetic” ingredients must be carefully selected and tested to ensure they provide the desired effect.
T
Thickener
An ingredient, such as Bentonite, that has a strong tendency to absorb water, giving a swelling or gelling effect. Such ingredients also have some emulsifying properties and increase the viscosity of liquid products, thereby aiding in maintaining their stability.
U
Unsaponifiable
Natural oils contain mostly fats which can be converted to soap through a chemical reaction known as saponification. After such a reaction has been carried out, one can remove the soap and be left with the minor leftover substances that cannot be converted to soap and that are known as Unsaponifiables. As an example, Olive Oil Unsaponifiables are used for their emollient qualities in moisturizers.